Lake Moraine in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada — Lake Moraine, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

Rick Steves once said that some places are so incredible that trying to cram all of the sights and experiences into one visit is impossible. Enjoy your time and enjoy an excuse to come back again another day.

Banff is one of these places. Trying to narrow down an itinerary from everything there is to do and see was the most difficult of any trip I have planned so far.

I decided to visit before the busiest parts of the summer season, which had pros and cons.

In most places, crowds were minimal. This was nice because I don’t enjoy crowds. Restaurants I went to did not have wait times, parking was simple, and getting around even the busiest tourist spots wasn’t too difficult.

The biggest con for me was that the hikes I wanted to do were still snowbound and not recommended due to avalanche risk. I’ll take that as an excuse to visit again during a different season.

First, a moose update

I talked with a Canadian man during my visit to Everglades National Park earlier this year and he shared Calgary and Banff tips with me. Of course I had to tell him about my moose issues. He laughed and said, “When you get there, just ask them where the moose are.”

So I did, and lots of kind souls tried to help me. General consensus was that you have to travel a ways away from Banff and the more crowded areas to see one. Moose seem to like their peace and quiet, they also like marshy areas, and are most likely to be seen in the mornings. Honestly? Same for me.

I packed up my camera gear and drove far from town to peaceful marshy places before sunrise. My zoom lens and I waited and waited, as quietly as possible. And y’all, I did not see a single moose. I did, however, see some of the most beautiful sunrises of my life.

The journey continues.

Hotels

There are endless hotel choices in Banff and the surrounding area for you to choose from depending on your budget, your plans for your visit, whether you want to drive or take transit options, etc.

I went with the Dorothy Motel in the town of Banff.

The Dorothy Motel is on the edge of town, a bit away from the downtown area. It is about a block from a bus stop. The room had lots of storage space for all of my gear, including plenty of hooks and shelves. Parking was easy during my visit, though I imagine parking would be more limited if you go during a busier time of year.

I found a good deal on the hotel and my rental car by using an airline loyalty program. Every airline program is different and they take some research to find the best one for your travel plans. That said, you can save a good bit of money on travel bookings and that comes in handy for destinations like Banff.

So many sights

Jasper National Park

Jasper National Park is enormous and there are tons of things to do.

A highlight of my time in the park was an Athabasca Glacier hike with IceWalks. I usually prefer to solo hike, but there are crevasses and ladders to cross, so a guided hike is the best way to go. The weather in the mountains changes quickly, so bring a lot of layers. We had clouds and a spell of heavy snow during my hike.

The glacier is a little more than two hours away from Banff, and other sights north of the glacier take more time to reach. That said, the drive to Jasper from Banff - or frankly, the drive to anywhere from Banff - is breathtaking and the distance and time are worth it regardless of where you’re headed.

Yoho National Park

Emerald Lake at Yoho National Park was about an hour drive from Banff. It is a beautiful location and the hike around the lake was peaceful and scenic.

There were black bears near the trail during my visit.

A note about bear spray

Bear spray is pricey, but it is worth the cost.

I stopped at Bass Pro Shops near the Calgary airport on my way into Banff and got a can for about $50. I saw other stores further into the park selling spray for nearly $100.

Kootenay National Park

Kootenay National Park is very close to Banff. Some of the park’s hikes are only half an hour from town.

I visited Marble Canyon and Paint Pots on my way back to town from a morning at Lake Louise and Lake Moraine.

Lake Louise and Lake Moraine

The small parking lot at Lake Louise fills very early in the morning, so your best bet to ensure you get to visit the lake is to book a seat on a bus. Parks Canada has shuttles you can book, and private companies operate shuttles as well. You should book your seats very early as they sell out fast.

To get to Lake Moraine, you’ll need to book a shuttle, or hike or bike your way up to the lake.

I got to Lake Louise at 7 a.m. via the Parks Canada shuttle, and the main viewpoints of the lake were already fairly busy. Within an hour, there were rows of people along most of the boardwalks.

The shuttle to Lake Moraine only took a few minutes, and similarly, the crowds there began early. I spent about three hours total at both lakes, then headed down to Kootenay National Park for the rest of my day.

For me, fewer people and quieter spaces are more enjoyable, though I am so happy that I had the chance to see both of these gorgeous locations if even for a short time.

Lake Minnewanka

Lake Minnewanka is just a few minutes away from the town of Banff. You can hike, kayak, take boat tours on the lake, and more.

The scenic drive around the lake early in the morning was a great way to see elk, deer and bighorn sheep.

Banff Gondola

I booked an early morning ticket on the Banff Gondola and really enjoyed walking the boardwalk for the mountain views. There is a gift shop, a museum, restaurants and a coffee shop at the top.

Parking early in the morning was easy, but the lot was full when I left and employees were turning cars away. If you have a ticket for a ride that starts later in the day, you’ll likely need to plan extra time to find parking or you can take the shuttle bus from town.

Food

Finding gluten free meals in Banff was a breeze. There are lots of restaurants to choose from, and a few of my favorites are below.

As usual, I brought along a pile of snacks to keep in my pack while I was out and about. In town you can easily grab fresh food or hiking snacks at the grocery store or pick up to-go items from local spots to bring with you on the road.

I also went to Jolene’s Tea House and got a selection of teas to have in my hotel room, which was stocked with an electric kettle and mugs.

Bluebird

I am still thinking about this roasted chicken at Bluebird.

Wild Flour Bakery

Wild Flour has great coffee and lots of gf options. The gf apple muffin was incredible.

**Nourish**

I ordered the mac and squeeze with gf gnocci and vegan sauce, and a blackcurrent elderberry soda at Nourish Bistro, a 10/10 dinner.

Travel planning

There is so much to see in and around Banff and there are so many places to get tips and advice. I’ll share with you some of the resources I found most useful when planning my visit.

Park passes

If you plan to visit Canada’s national parks, the Parks Canada website has information about available passes that can suit your plans. I ordered a Discovery Pass online and it was shipped to my mailbox months before my visit.

Bus routes

There are a lot of transit options in and around Banff. You can rent a car, but be aware that parking can be limited, especially at the most popular destinations in busy months.

Click here for information about Parks Canada shuttles to Lake Louise and Lake Moraine and click here for information about Roam Transit routes around Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise.

Private companies operate shuttles around the area, including to and from the Calgary airport. Some activity and adventure companies also offer transit to and from different locations if you book an activity with them, so keep an eye on those options as well.

Reddit

The folks who operate the Banff subreddit have done a lot of work to compile summer and winter travel wikis with mountains of links and resources.

Lots of travelers have asked questions in posts on the sub, so search for the topic you’re interested in and you will probably find recommendations and advice.

AllTrails

AllTrails is of course a favorite resource for planning hikes.

For my trip to Banff, the traveler reviews and photos from other hikers were a huge help. Once you find a hike you are interested in, you can sort traveler’s photos of the trail by season to see what conditions can look like during the time you plan to be there.

You also can check the Parks Canada trail conditions site for the park you’re planning to visit to read updates on trail conditions.

Travel to Canada

The Canadian travel and tourism website has lots of information for anyone visiting from another country.